When considering which hutch to get for an outdoor guinea pig, the most important factors are your guinea pig’s health, safety, and comfort. Beyond this, there are some decisions to make about convenience, quality, and aesthetic appeal.
The first feature to look at in hutch design is quality. Does the hutch appear to be well built? Is it made from quality materials? Look to see that the welding was done before the metal was galvanized. (Welds should be under the rustproof coating, not over it.) Check the hinges and various connections throughout the hutch to see if they are well put together. Examine the construction carefully to make sure the hutch is secure and escape proof. Feel around for sharp points. Unfinished edges indicate sloppy craftsmanship and a danger to your guinea pig.
Another element to consider is height. Some hutches are low to the ground, while others have legs that put them anywhere from several inches to several feet up. Cages should not rest directly on the ground. For better ventilation and sanitation, hutches should be at least six inches off the ground. Hutches that rest directly on soil may end up being homes for mice and rats, who will create nests underneath the floor. If you buy a hutch with no legs, you’ll have to raise it up off the ground some other way. It’s best if the bottom of the cage is waist high. This makes the hutch easier to clean and makes access to the guinea pig less difficult for you.
When it comes to convenience, the location and style of doors are also important factors in hutch design. Outdoor hutches usually have doors on the front of the cage, although some will have topopening entries. Unless your hutch is very low to the ground, you will want to buy a design that has a door in the front. This will make it easier to reach in for cleaning.
To ensure that the hutch fits the needs of their pets, many guinea pig owners will design and build their own outdoor hutches. If you choose to do this, you may want to contact your local county extension office or the American Rabbit Breeders Association for plans and further information on how to construct a safe and sturdy hutch.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Friday, May 13, 2011
Guinea Pig Hutch Materials
Most hutches are made from either wood and wire or metal. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Wooden hutches usually consist of a wooden roof and wood-panel sides, with wire mesh on the door, front, and/or some sides of the cage. Wooden hutches stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, as long as they are made with a good quality wood and not pressboard. They can also be very attractive.
One problem with wooden hutches is that the wood can eventually rot, causing the hutch to slowly fall apart. Another disadvantage is that guinea pigs love to chew on wood and can gnaw sections of a wooden hutch to pieces if the wood is not protected by wire mesh.
Metal hutches retain heat in the summer and cold in the winter, which can be harmful to the guinea pig inside. They are very durable, however, and can last a very long time if they are well made. They are also easier to clean than wood hutches and often are less expensive.
Whether you choose a wooden hutch or a metal hutch, it’s important to select a home for your guinea pig that uses the proper type of wire. Chicken wire is not acceptable, since it is flimsy and is easily removed by both predators and the guinea pigs themselves. Side panels and doors on both wooden and metal hutches should be made from sturdy, galvanized wire, around 14-gauge in weight. The size of the holes in the wire mesh should be no larger than one inch by two inches.
The roof of an outdoor hutch should be covered with a waterproof substance, such as heavy-duty plastic or roofing material. This is vital if the hutch and its occupant are to stay warm and dry.
The floor is very important because improper flooring can cause a number of health problems in your guinea pig. Most hutches have some wire flooring, designed to allow feces and urine to drop away from the animal. However, wire mesh that is too large can be dangerous because a guinea pig’s leg can fall through. The wire mesh should also be smooth because rough edges can result in sore hocks.
Make sure at least one-third of the floor space contains a flat, porous surface (preferably wood) where your guinea pig can sit to get off the wire. This is important because constant walking on wire can cause sore hocks.
One problem with wooden hutches is that the wood can eventually rot, causing the hutch to slowly fall apart. Another disadvantage is that guinea pigs love to chew on wood and can gnaw sections of a wooden hutch to pieces if the wood is not protected by wire mesh.
Metal hutches retain heat in the summer and cold in the winter, which can be harmful to the guinea pig inside. They are very durable, however, and can last a very long time if they are well made. They are also easier to clean than wood hutches and often are less expensive.
Whether you choose a wooden hutch or a metal hutch, it’s important to select a home for your guinea pig that uses the proper type of wire. Chicken wire is not acceptable, since it is flimsy and is easily removed by both predators and the guinea pigs themselves. Side panels and doors on both wooden and metal hutches should be made from sturdy, galvanized wire, around 14-gauge in weight. The size of the holes in the wire mesh should be no larger than one inch by two inches.
The roof of an outdoor hutch should be covered with a waterproof substance, such as heavy-duty plastic or roofing material. This is vital if the hutch and its occupant are to stay warm and dry.
The floor is very important because improper flooring can cause a number of health problems in your guinea pig. Most hutches have some wire flooring, designed to allow feces and urine to drop away from the animal. However, wire mesh that is too large can be dangerous because a guinea pig’s leg can fall through. The wire mesh should also be smooth because rough edges can result in sore hocks.
Make sure at least one-third of the floor space contains a flat, porous surface (preferably wood) where your guinea pig can sit to get off the wire. This is important because constant walking on wire can cause sore hocks.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Guinea Pig Hutch Size
There are a number of commercially made hutches that are suitable for guinea pigs. It’s important to choose a hutch that will meet your guinea pig’s needs for shelter, comfort, and safety.
First, consider size. The more room you can provide for your guinea pig, the better. Buy your guinea pig the largest hutch your space will accommodate. Giving your guinea pig plenty of room to move around will help him stay happy and healthy.
When you’re thinking about the hutch, keep your pet’s size in mind. In general, each adult guinea pig will need a minimum of a hundred square inches of floor space, and more is better. A guinea pig who does not have enough room in his hutch may become depressed. A space that’s too small will be fouled more quickly with feces and urine, leaving the guinea pig to spend more time than he should in unsanitary conditions and making cleanup a bigger hassle for you. (But don’t get a single-door hutch that is so deep you can’t reach into it to clean it. Large hutches should have more than one door.)
You’ll also want to make sure that the hutch is big enough to accommodate a separate sleeping space, either a nest box or a built-in compartment. Providing your guinea pig with a secluded and separate place to sleep will help him feel safer and happier in the hutch. A built-in sleeping compartment should be about eighteen inches long and six inches high and wide.
Larger hutches can also accommodate litter boxes. If you’d like your guinea pig to spend time free roaming with you inside your home, you may want to try to litter box train him and then have him use a litter box even in his hutch. This way, he will be used to using the box and will be less likely to have an accident when he is in the house.
First, consider size. The more room you can provide for your guinea pig, the better. Buy your guinea pig the largest hutch your space will accommodate. Giving your guinea pig plenty of room to move around will help him stay happy and healthy.
When you’re thinking about the hutch, keep your pet’s size in mind. In general, each adult guinea pig will need a minimum of a hundred square inches of floor space, and more is better. A guinea pig who does not have enough room in his hutch may become depressed. A space that’s too small will be fouled more quickly with feces and urine, leaving the guinea pig to spend more time than he should in unsanitary conditions and making cleanup a bigger hassle for you. (But don’t get a single-door hutch that is so deep you can’t reach into it to clean it. Large hutches should have more than one door.)
You’ll also want to make sure that the hutch is big enough to accommodate a separate sleeping space, either a nest box or a built-in compartment. Providing your guinea pig with a secluded and separate place to sleep will help him feel safer and happier in the hutch. A built-in sleeping compartment should be about eighteen inches long and six inches high and wide.
Larger hutches can also accommodate litter boxes. If you’d like your guinea pig to spend time free roaming with you inside your home, you may want to try to litter box train him and then have him use a litter box even in his hutch. This way, he will be used to using the box and will be less likely to have an accident when he is in the house.
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Guinea Pig Outdoor Housing
If keeping your guinea pig indoors is out of the question, it is possible to successfully house him outside if you take strict precautions. Before you prepare to bring your outdoor guinea pig home with you, be sure to check your local zoning ordinances to make certain it is legal to keep a guinea pig outdoors in your area.
When determining what kind of housing you will provide for your guinea pig and where it will be located, there are many details you must keep in mind so your guinea pig will be healthy and safe. You will need to protect your guinea pig from the elements, as well as from extreme changes in temperature. You will also need to guard against predators and give your guinea pig enough room to move around comfortably.
When determining what kind of housing you will provide for your guinea pig and where it will be located, there are many details you must keep in mind so your guinea pig will be healthy and safe. You will need to protect your guinea pig from the elements, as well as from extreme changes in temperature. You will also need to guard against predators and give your guinea pig enough room to move around comfortably.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Guinea Pig Proofing Your Home
You can prevent much of the destruction guinea pigs can cause and keep your new pet safe by looking at your home from a guinea pig’s point of view. Get down on all fours and look around. Do you see loose electrical wires, cords dangling from the blinds, chewy shoes on the floor? Your guinea pig will see them, too!
In all the rooms your guinea pig will be allowed in:
• Get plastic trashcans with tight-fitting lids.
• Spray wooden moldings and furniture legs with a scent deterrent, or cover them with a nonchewable surface.
• Keep all household cleaners, medicines, vitamins, shampoos, bath products, perfumes, makeup, nail polish remover, and other personal products in cupboards that close securely.
• Cover or tack up electrical cords; consider childproof covers for unused outlets.
• Knot or tie up any dangling cords from curtains, blinds, and the telephone.
• Put all houseplants out of reach.
• Pick up all chewable items, including television and electronics remote controls, cellphones, shoes, socks, slippers and sandals, food, dishes, cups and utensils, toys, books and magazines, and anything else that can be chewed on.
• Block off all nooks, cracks, and crevices where a guinea pig could hide.
In all the rooms your guinea pig will be allowed in:
• Get plastic trashcans with tight-fitting lids.
• Spray wooden moldings and furniture legs with a scent deterrent, or cover them with a nonchewable surface.
• Keep all household cleaners, medicines, vitamins, shampoos, bath products, perfumes, makeup, nail polish remover, and other personal products in cupboards that close securely.
• Cover or tack up electrical cords; consider childproof covers for unused outlets.
• Knot or tie up any dangling cords from curtains, blinds, and the telephone.
• Put all houseplants out of reach.
• Pick up all chewable items, including television and electronics remote controls, cellphones, shoes, socks, slippers and sandals, food, dishes, cups and utensils, toys, books and magazines, and anything else that can be chewed on.
• Block off all nooks, cracks, and crevices where a guinea pig could hide.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Guinea Pig Proofing
Because guinea pigs are gnawing animals and have an innate need to chew, it is vitally important that you guinea pig proof your home before you let your pet run loose. Along with providing your guinea pig with toys he can chew on, you’ll also need to devise ways to keep him from gnawing on household items, for the sake of your home and the animal’s health.
Electrical cords pose the greatest threat to your guinea pig’s safety and should be a primary concern. Guinea pigs will chew through cords, electrocuting themselves and creating a fire hazard in your home. You can protect your home and your guinea pig by moving dangling cords out of reach. Cords that cannot be moved should be covered with plastic aquarium-type tubing. To do this, slit the tubing lengthwise and lay the cord inside. Or try wrapping the cord with spiral cable wrap, available in electronics stores.
Guinea pigs will chew on anything made of wood, so wooden moldings, furniture legs, and other chewables that will be attractive to your guinea pig can be covered with thick plastic or treated with a scent deterrent. Perfume and cologne re repugnant to guinea pigs, who have a sharp sense of smell. You can also use store-bought repellents made to keep away other pets. Not all guinea pigs will be rebuffed by this, however, and you may have to resort to covering areas with unchewable surfaces.
Another important aspect to guinea pig proofing your home is to take a survey of all the places where your guinea pig could get caught or hide. Since guinea pigs are inquisitive animals, your pet will want to explore every nook and cranny of your house. Look around for guinea pig–size spaces that your pet can escape through or get trapped in. Block off these areas securely. And while you are surveying the house, make sure that toxic household chemicals and trash bags are well hidden from your pet.
Electrical cords pose the greatest threat to your guinea pig’s safety and should be a primary concern. Guinea pigs will chew through cords, electrocuting themselves and creating a fire hazard in your home. You can protect your home and your guinea pig by moving dangling cords out of reach. Cords that cannot be moved should be covered with plastic aquarium-type tubing. To do this, slit the tubing lengthwise and lay the cord inside. Or try wrapping the cord with spiral cable wrap, available in electronics stores.
Guinea pigs will chew on anything made of wood, so wooden moldings, furniture legs, and other chewables that will be attractive to your guinea pig can be covered with thick plastic or treated with a scent deterrent. Perfume and cologne re repugnant to guinea pigs, who have a sharp sense of smell. You can also use store-bought repellents made to keep away other pets. Not all guinea pigs will be rebuffed by this, however, and you may have to resort to covering areas with unchewable surfaces.
Another important aspect to guinea pig proofing your home is to take a survey of all the places where your guinea pig could get caught or hide. Since guinea pigs are inquisitive animals, your pet will want to explore every nook and cranny of your house. Look around for guinea pig–size spaces that your pet can escape through or get trapped in. Block off these areas securely. And while you are surveying the house, make sure that toxic household chemicals and trash bags are well hidden from your pet.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Guinea Pig House Location
When you are deciding where in the house to put your guinea pig’s cage, remember that extreme temperatures are dangerous for these animals. Do not put your guinea pig’s cage in a spot where the sun will shine directly on it. Avoid keeping it near a radiator, stove, fireplace, or other heating element.
Cold drafts can also be deadly. Keep your guinea pig’s cage away from doors and windows, where winter drafts can leak in. Try to keep your guinea pig’s cage off the floor during cold weather, too, since cold air tends to lie near the ground, creating drafts.
Avoid placing your guinea pig’s cage in dark or damp areas. Basements and garages are not suitable areas for guinea pigs since they typically have minimal light, poor ventilation, and excessive moisture. Garages are also dangerous because guinea pigs are sensitive to car-exhaust fumes.
Try to find a place in your home where your guinea pig will be able to watch the household activity without being unduly disturbed. You want your guinea pig to feel like part of the family, so his cage needs to be in a room where people come and go. However, don’t put him in such a busy spot that he will never be able to rest or relax. Be especially careful not to place the cage near a television set, stereo, or radio. A guinea pig’s hearing is very sensitive, and a lot of noise can be very disturbing.
Cold drafts can also be deadly. Keep your guinea pig’s cage away from doors and windows, where winter drafts can leak in. Try to keep your guinea pig’s cage off the floor during cold weather, too, since cold air tends to lie near the ground, creating drafts.
Avoid placing your guinea pig’s cage in dark or damp areas. Basements and garages are not suitable areas for guinea pigs since they typically have minimal light, poor ventilation, and excessive moisture. Garages are also dangerous because guinea pigs are sensitive to car-exhaust fumes.
Try to find a place in your home where your guinea pig will be able to watch the household activity without being unduly disturbed. You want your guinea pig to feel like part of the family, so his cage needs to be in a room where people come and go. However, don’t put him in such a busy spot that he will never be able to rest or relax. Be especially careful not to place the cage near a television set, stereo, or radio. A guinea pig’s hearing is very sensitive, and a lot of noise can be very disturbing.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Guinea Pig Nest Box
Guinea pigs are burrowing animals by nature. In the wild, they live under the ground in dens they dig themselves. These burrows provide them with a sense of security. For this reason, guinea pigs who live above ground as pets enjoy having nest boxes, a substitute for burrows, inside their cage.
A nest box is a small enclosure that contains the animal’s bedding and has an entry hole cut into it. It provides a safe place to sleep and hide. A cardboard box would work well as a nest box, but most guinea pigs will quickly chew it to pieces, so wood is preferred. (They’ll chew that, too, but not as fast.)
Commercially made nest boxes are available through pet supply outlets and mail-order catalogs that specialize in small animal supplies. Or you can build your own. Just make sure the wood has never been treated with anything toxic.
Your guinea pig’s nest box should be big enough for the animal to turn around in while several inches of bedding are in place. Make sure the entrance to the nest box is big enough for your guinea pig to go in easily and that one side of the box is removable so you can clean it. There should be no sharp edges anywhere in the box.
A nest box is a small enclosure that contains the animal’s bedding and has an entry hole cut into it. It provides a safe place to sleep and hide. A cardboard box would work well as a nest box, but most guinea pigs will quickly chew it to pieces, so wood is preferred. (They’ll chew that, too, but not as fast.)
Commercially made nest boxes are available through pet supply outlets and mail-order catalogs that specialize in small animal supplies. Or you can build your own. Just make sure the wood has never been treated with anything toxic.
Your guinea pig’s nest box should be big enough for the animal to turn around in while several inches of bedding are in place. Make sure the entrance to the nest box is big enough for your guinea pig to go in easily and that one side of the box is removable so you can clean it. There should be no sharp edges anywhere in the box.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Guinea Pig Indoor Housing
Even though your indoor guinea pig will have the same roof over his head that you do, he’ll still need his own private retreat. A cage will offer security for your guinea pig (and your home!) and can also give him privacy and a safe haven.
Indoor guinea pig cages are available in pet supply stores and through catalogs, and there are a wide variety of styles. Look for one made from sturdy wire, with a removable bottom tray. Your guinea pig will not be able to gnaw on the wire, and the removable tray will make cleaning easier. Wire will also give your pet the ventilation and light he needs.
A solid, rustproof metal or hard plastic floor is suitable for a guinea pig. While a wire mesh bottom can make cage cleaning easier, it is not very safe for your guinea pig because his legs can easily get caught in it. Also, wire floors can result in sore feet and hocks. If you insist on a cage with a wire floor, a solid area made of wood (any type except redwood, which is toxic) must be provided somewhere in the cage so the guinea pig can find relief from the wire bottom.
The indoor cage should be big enough for the guinea pig to stretch out and move around in while also accommodating a nest box, food and water accessories, and a toy or two. The height of the cage should allow the guinea pig to stand up on his hind legs without his head touching the top.
Look for a cage that is sturdily constructed and easy to disassemble for cleaning. It should also have a door on top so you can reach inside and a door on the side so the guinea pig can go in and out of the cage when he wishes.
Indoor guinea pig cages are available in pet supply stores and through catalogs, and there are a wide variety of styles. Look for one made from sturdy wire, with a removable bottom tray. Your guinea pig will not be able to gnaw on the wire, and the removable tray will make cleaning easier. Wire will also give your pet the ventilation and light he needs.
A solid, rustproof metal or hard plastic floor is suitable for a guinea pig. While a wire mesh bottom can make cage cleaning easier, it is not very safe for your guinea pig because his legs can easily get caught in it. Also, wire floors can result in sore feet and hocks. If you insist on a cage with a wire floor, a solid area made of wood (any type except redwood, which is toxic) must be provided somewhere in the cage so the guinea pig can find relief from the wire bottom.
The indoor cage should be big enough for the guinea pig to stretch out and move around in while also accommodating a nest box, food and water accessories, and a toy or two. The height of the cage should allow the guinea pig to stand up on his hind legs without his head touching the top.
Look for a cage that is sturdily constructed and easy to disassemble for cleaning. It should also have a door on top so you can reach inside and a door on the side so the guinea pig can go in and out of the cage when he wishes.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Spaying and Neutering Guinea Pig
Worries about gender and reproduction can be solved very simply by spaying and neutering. Pet guinea pigs who will not be shown or bred should be spayed or neutered. Once this is done, their troublesome hormones will disappear, they will be healthier, and you will have a gentler, loving pet. Preventing your pet from having a litter will also help curb the guinea pig overpopulation problem, meaning fewer guinea pigs in animal shelters will lose their lives.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Naming Your Guinea Pig
Once you choose your guinea pig, you will need to name her. If you have children, let them participate in choosing the name. You can get inspiration from the guinea pig’s color (Blackie), or shape (Peanut), or personality (Snuggles). Whatever you do, don’t choose something that’s ugly or unkind. You will be using your guinea pig’s name for years to come, so make sure it’s an attractive name that bears repeating.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Guinea Pig Gender
Debate goes on in guinea pig circles over which make better pets: males (boars) or females (sows). The answer really depends on what you plan to do with your cavy.
Females are said to be mainly concerned with reproducing. They emit an odor and are very interested in breeding with males that they meet. Males, on the other hand, are thought to be somewhat aggressive and unsettled. They also have a strong odor and will be territorial with other males.
If you decide to spay or neuter your guinea pig, however, gender should not be a factor in your purchasing decision, since spayed sows and neutered boars make equally good pets.
If you plan to get two guinea pigs who will live together in the same cage, make sure you have accurate information about the animals’ gender. If you have more than one guinea pig and you do not want to spay or neuter them, you will need to get two females. There is no way to stop a male and a female from breeding, and two unneutered males will fight with each other. The problem is that male and female guinea pigs can be hard to tell apart, especially when they are young. Get expert advice from a breeder or veterinarian about the gender of your pets before you place them together.
Females are said to be mainly concerned with reproducing. They emit an odor and are very interested in breeding with males that they meet. Males, on the other hand, are thought to be somewhat aggressive and unsettled. They also have a strong odor and will be territorial with other males.
If you decide to spay or neuter your guinea pig, however, gender should not be a factor in your purchasing decision, since spayed sows and neutered boars make equally good pets.
If you plan to get two guinea pigs who will live together in the same cage, make sure you have accurate information about the animals’ gender. If you have more than one guinea pig and you do not want to spay or neuter them, you will need to get two females. There is no way to stop a male and a female from breeding, and two unneutered males will fight with each other. The problem is that male and female guinea pigs can be hard to tell apart, especially when they are young. Get expert advice from a breeder or veterinarian about the gender of your pets before you place them together.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Guinea Pig Personality
If you give your guinea pig love and attention, chances are she will become a wonderful pet. However, when you are selecting your guinea pig, you may want to observe the personality of the animals you are considering to see which one strikes your fancy. Guinea pigs who appear nervous and afraid may be highstrung or just unused to being handled. If the animal is young, she is still very impressionable and will learn to be held and stroked if you show her love and consideration. Older guinea pigs who have not been handled much will need more work to make them comfortable with people. Eventually, though, they should learn to respond to care and affection.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Guinea Pig Health
It’s important to start out on the right foot by selecting a guinea pig who is in good health. A guinea pig’s general health can be determined in a number of ways. Check to see if her ears and nose are clean and free of discharge and debris. Then take a close look at her fur. The fur of a healthy guinea pig will be soft, shiny, and even. Keep an eye out for lice in the ears and fur, bald spots, and signs of diarrhea. Check around the cage to make sure that the guinea pig’s fecal pellets are round and hard; diarrhea is a sign of illness.
Feel the guinea pig’s body. It should be round, tight, and smooth. If the abdomen is hard and round, the guinea pig may be suffering from a worm infestation.
Attitude is also important when determining a guinea pig’s health. Look for an animal who is bright eyed, alert, and active. A guinea pig who appears dull and listless is probably sick.
Be sure to take notice of the guinea pig’s surroundings. Are they clean and relatively odor free? Are the animals kept in spacious, airy cages? Do the other guinea pigs appear healthy? Many guinea pig diseases are contagious. If the guinea pig you are considering for purchase is housed near a sick guinea pig, chances are your pet will come down with the same illness.
Check the guinea pig’s teeth to see if the two top teeth overlap the two lower teeth. Do not buy a guinea pig whose upper incisors do not overlap the lower incisors. This condition is called malocclusion and is a serious problem in guinea pigs that can result in much grief to both guinea pig and owner. Misaligned teeth do not wear down properly and can grow out of control. Unless they are regularly trimmed by a veterinarian, they will cause mouth infections and jaw problems, and can even grow so long that they will curve back into the guinea pig’s skull and kill the animal.
If you are buying your pet from a breeder, talk to them about the guinea pig you are considering. Ask questions about the animal’s ancestors. What were their personalities like? Did they have any health problems that could be genetic? If you plan to show your guinea pig, ask about the show careers of the guinea pig’s parents and grandparents. Ask to see the guinea pig’s sire (father) and dam (mother). Study the standard (a description of the ideal guinea pig) for the breed you are considering and try to apply it to the guinea pig’s parents. If they are good specimens of the breed, chances are their offspring will be, too.
While you are discussing the guinea pig with the breeder or retailer, ask them if they have a return policy if the guinea pig becomes ill. If you have other pets, particularly a dog, also find out if the seller will take the guinea pig back if your other pets will not accept her into the household.
Feel the guinea pig’s body. It should be round, tight, and smooth. If the abdomen is hard and round, the guinea pig may be suffering from a worm infestation.
Attitude is also important when determining a guinea pig’s health. Look for an animal who is bright eyed, alert, and active. A guinea pig who appears dull and listless is probably sick.
Be sure to take notice of the guinea pig’s surroundings. Are they clean and relatively odor free? Are the animals kept in spacious, airy cages? Do the other guinea pigs appear healthy? Many guinea pig diseases are contagious. If the guinea pig you are considering for purchase is housed near a sick guinea pig, chances are your pet will come down with the same illness.
Check the guinea pig’s teeth to see if the two top teeth overlap the two lower teeth. Do not buy a guinea pig whose upper incisors do not overlap the lower incisors. This condition is called malocclusion and is a serious problem in guinea pigs that can result in much grief to both guinea pig and owner. Misaligned teeth do not wear down properly and can grow out of control. Unless they are regularly trimmed by a veterinarian, they will cause mouth infections and jaw problems, and can even grow so long that they will curve back into the guinea pig’s skull and kill the animal.
If you are buying your pet from a breeder, talk to them about the guinea pig you are considering. Ask questions about the animal’s ancestors. What were their personalities like? Did they have any health problems that could be genetic? If you plan to show your guinea pig, ask about the show careers of the guinea pig’s parents and grandparents. Ask to see the guinea pig’s sire (father) and dam (mother). Study the standard (a description of the ideal guinea pig) for the breed you are considering and try to apply it to the guinea pig’s parents. If they are good specimens of the breed, chances are their offspring will be, too.
While you are discussing the guinea pig with the breeder or retailer, ask them if they have a return policy if the guinea pig becomes ill. If you have other pets, particularly a dog, also find out if the seller will take the guinea pig back if your other pets will not accept her into the household.