Guinea pigs are burrowing animals by nature. In the wild, they live under the ground in dens they dig themselves. These burrows provide them with a sense of security. For this reason, guinea pigs who live above ground as pets enjoy having nest boxes, a substitute for burrows, inside their cage.
A nest box is a small enclosure that contains the animal’s bedding and has an entry hole cut into it. It provides a safe place to sleep and hide. A cardboard box would work well as a nest box, but most guinea pigs will quickly chew it to pieces, so wood is preferred. (They’ll chew that, too, but not as fast.)
Commercially made nest boxes are available through pet supply outlets and mail-order catalogs that specialize in small animal supplies. Or you can build your own. Just make sure the wood has never been treated with anything toxic.
Your guinea pig’s nest box should be big enough for the animal to turn around in while several inches of bedding are in place. Make sure the entrance to the nest box is big enough for your guinea pig to go in easily and that one side of the box is removable so you can clean it. There should be no sharp edges anywhere in the box.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Friday, May 6, 2011
Guinea Pig Indoor Housing
Even though your indoor guinea pig will have the same roof over his head that you do, he’ll still need his own private retreat. A cage will offer security for your guinea pig (and your home!) and can also give him privacy and a safe haven.
Indoor guinea pig cages are available in pet supply stores and through catalogs, and there are a wide variety of styles. Look for one made from sturdy wire, with a removable bottom tray. Your guinea pig will not be able to gnaw on the wire, and the removable tray will make cleaning easier. Wire will also give your pet the ventilation and light he needs.
A solid, rustproof metal or hard plastic floor is suitable for a guinea pig. While a wire mesh bottom can make cage cleaning easier, it is not very safe for your guinea pig because his legs can easily get caught in it. Also, wire floors can result in sore feet and hocks. If you insist on a cage with a wire floor, a solid area made of wood (any type except redwood, which is toxic) must be provided somewhere in the cage so the guinea pig can find relief from the wire bottom.
The indoor cage should be big enough for the guinea pig to stretch out and move around in while also accommodating a nest box, food and water accessories, and a toy or two. The height of the cage should allow the guinea pig to stand up on his hind legs without his head touching the top.
Look for a cage that is sturdily constructed and easy to disassemble for cleaning. It should also have a door on top so you can reach inside and a door on the side so the guinea pig can go in and out of the cage when he wishes.
Indoor guinea pig cages are available in pet supply stores and through catalogs, and there are a wide variety of styles. Look for one made from sturdy wire, with a removable bottom tray. Your guinea pig will not be able to gnaw on the wire, and the removable tray will make cleaning easier. Wire will also give your pet the ventilation and light he needs.
A solid, rustproof metal or hard plastic floor is suitable for a guinea pig. While a wire mesh bottom can make cage cleaning easier, it is not very safe for your guinea pig because his legs can easily get caught in it. Also, wire floors can result in sore feet and hocks. If you insist on a cage with a wire floor, a solid area made of wood (any type except redwood, which is toxic) must be provided somewhere in the cage so the guinea pig can find relief from the wire bottom.
The indoor cage should be big enough for the guinea pig to stretch out and move around in while also accommodating a nest box, food and water accessories, and a toy or two. The height of the cage should allow the guinea pig to stand up on his hind legs without his head touching the top.
Look for a cage that is sturdily constructed and easy to disassemble for cleaning. It should also have a door on top so you can reach inside and a door on the side so the guinea pig can go in and out of the cage when he wishes.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Spaying and Neutering Guinea Pig
Worries about gender and reproduction can be solved very simply by spaying and neutering. Pet guinea pigs who will not be shown or bred should be spayed or neutered. Once this is done, their troublesome hormones will disappear, they will be healthier, and you will have a gentler, loving pet. Preventing your pet from having a litter will also help curb the guinea pig overpopulation problem, meaning fewer guinea pigs in animal shelters will lose their lives.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Naming Your Guinea Pig
Once you choose your guinea pig, you will need to name her. If you have children, let them participate in choosing the name. You can get inspiration from the guinea pig’s color (Blackie), or shape (Peanut), or personality (Snuggles). Whatever you do, don’t choose something that’s ugly or unkind. You will be using your guinea pig’s name for years to come, so make sure it’s an attractive name that bears repeating.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Guinea Pig Gender
Debate goes on in guinea pig circles over which make better pets: males (boars) or females (sows). The answer really depends on what you plan to do with your cavy.
Females are said to be mainly concerned with reproducing. They emit an odor and are very interested in breeding with males that they meet. Males, on the other hand, are thought to be somewhat aggressive and unsettled. They also have a strong odor and will be territorial with other males.
If you decide to spay or neuter your guinea pig, however, gender should not be a factor in your purchasing decision, since spayed sows and neutered boars make equally good pets.
If you plan to get two guinea pigs who will live together in the same cage, make sure you have accurate information about the animals’ gender. If you have more than one guinea pig and you do not want to spay or neuter them, you will need to get two females. There is no way to stop a male and a female from breeding, and two unneutered males will fight with each other. The problem is that male and female guinea pigs can be hard to tell apart, especially when they are young. Get expert advice from a breeder or veterinarian about the gender of your pets before you place them together.
Females are said to be mainly concerned with reproducing. They emit an odor and are very interested in breeding with males that they meet. Males, on the other hand, are thought to be somewhat aggressive and unsettled. They also have a strong odor and will be territorial with other males.
If you decide to spay or neuter your guinea pig, however, gender should not be a factor in your purchasing decision, since spayed sows and neutered boars make equally good pets.
If you plan to get two guinea pigs who will live together in the same cage, make sure you have accurate information about the animals’ gender. If you have more than one guinea pig and you do not want to spay or neuter them, you will need to get two females. There is no way to stop a male and a female from breeding, and two unneutered males will fight with each other. The problem is that male and female guinea pigs can be hard to tell apart, especially when they are young. Get expert advice from a breeder or veterinarian about the gender of your pets before you place them together.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Guinea Pig Personality
If you give your guinea pig love and attention, chances are she will become a wonderful pet. However, when you are selecting your guinea pig, you may want to observe the personality of the animals you are considering to see which one strikes your fancy. Guinea pigs who appear nervous and afraid may be highstrung or just unused to being handled. If the animal is young, she is still very impressionable and will learn to be held and stroked if you show her love and consideration. Older guinea pigs who have not been handled much will need more work to make them comfortable with people. Eventually, though, they should learn to respond to care and affection.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Guinea Pig Health
It’s important to start out on the right foot by selecting a guinea pig who is in good health. A guinea pig’s general health can be determined in a number of ways. Check to see if her ears and nose are clean and free of discharge and debris. Then take a close look at her fur. The fur of a healthy guinea pig will be soft, shiny, and even. Keep an eye out for lice in the ears and fur, bald spots, and signs of diarrhea. Check around the cage to make sure that the guinea pig’s fecal pellets are round and hard; diarrhea is a sign of illness.
Feel the guinea pig’s body. It should be round, tight, and smooth. If the abdomen is hard and round, the guinea pig may be suffering from a worm infestation.
Attitude is also important when determining a guinea pig’s health. Look for an animal who is bright eyed, alert, and active. A guinea pig who appears dull and listless is probably sick.
Be sure to take notice of the guinea pig’s surroundings. Are they clean and relatively odor free? Are the animals kept in spacious, airy cages? Do the other guinea pigs appear healthy? Many guinea pig diseases are contagious. If the guinea pig you are considering for purchase is housed near a sick guinea pig, chances are your pet will come down with the same illness.
Check the guinea pig’s teeth to see if the two top teeth overlap the two lower teeth. Do not buy a guinea pig whose upper incisors do not overlap the lower incisors. This condition is called malocclusion and is a serious problem in guinea pigs that can result in much grief to both guinea pig and owner. Misaligned teeth do not wear down properly and can grow out of control. Unless they are regularly trimmed by a veterinarian, they will cause mouth infections and jaw problems, and can even grow so long that they will curve back into the guinea pig’s skull and kill the animal.
If you are buying your pet from a breeder, talk to them about the guinea pig you are considering. Ask questions about the animal’s ancestors. What were their personalities like? Did they have any health problems that could be genetic? If you plan to show your guinea pig, ask about the show careers of the guinea pig’s parents and grandparents. Ask to see the guinea pig’s sire (father) and dam (mother). Study the standard (a description of the ideal guinea pig) for the breed you are considering and try to apply it to the guinea pig’s parents. If they are good specimens of the breed, chances are their offspring will be, too.
While you are discussing the guinea pig with the breeder or retailer, ask them if they have a return policy if the guinea pig becomes ill. If you have other pets, particularly a dog, also find out if the seller will take the guinea pig back if your other pets will not accept her into the household.
Feel the guinea pig’s body. It should be round, tight, and smooth. If the abdomen is hard and round, the guinea pig may be suffering from a worm infestation.
Attitude is also important when determining a guinea pig’s health. Look for an animal who is bright eyed, alert, and active. A guinea pig who appears dull and listless is probably sick.
Be sure to take notice of the guinea pig’s surroundings. Are they clean and relatively odor free? Are the animals kept in spacious, airy cages? Do the other guinea pigs appear healthy? Many guinea pig diseases are contagious. If the guinea pig you are considering for purchase is housed near a sick guinea pig, chances are your pet will come down with the same illness.
Check the guinea pig’s teeth to see if the two top teeth overlap the two lower teeth. Do not buy a guinea pig whose upper incisors do not overlap the lower incisors. This condition is called malocclusion and is a serious problem in guinea pigs that can result in much grief to both guinea pig and owner. Misaligned teeth do not wear down properly and can grow out of control. Unless they are regularly trimmed by a veterinarian, they will cause mouth infections and jaw problems, and can even grow so long that they will curve back into the guinea pig’s skull and kill the animal.
If you are buying your pet from a breeder, talk to them about the guinea pig you are considering. Ask questions about the animal’s ancestors. What were their personalities like? Did they have any health problems that could be genetic? If you plan to show your guinea pig, ask about the show careers of the guinea pig’s parents and grandparents. Ask to see the guinea pig’s sire (father) and dam (mother). Study the standard (a description of the ideal guinea pig) for the breed you are considering and try to apply it to the guinea pig’s parents. If they are good specimens of the breed, chances are their offspring will be, too.
While you are discussing the guinea pig with the breeder or retailer, ask them if they have a return policy if the guinea pig becomes ill. If you have other pets, particularly a dog, also find out if the seller will take the guinea pig back if your other pets will not accept her into the household.
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